To purchase Swan Lake & Lily Stole, go PayPal $25 to SAReishus@aol.com. I will then email you the copyrighted pdf.
Thank you!
Susan Reishus
Thank you!
Susan Reishus
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Swan Lake & Lily Stole pattern for sale!
To view Swan Lake & Lily Stole, go to www.SusanReishus.com.
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
SWAN LAKE & LILY STOLE Pattern Released!
After 1800 hours of work, the pattern Swan Lake & Lily Stole was completed and available for sale on October 1. It is completely original and written from scratch, and was a complicated journey to make it a simpler knit. There is nothing really like it, and it includes thorough instructions and tips for lace knitting, and various ways to tie or wear this beautiful design.
You can view it on my website:
http://www.SusanReishusDesigns.com
More patterns are to come within the next months, some simpler and some more complicated, from lace to socks, baby items, and sweaters, etc. If you are curious, you can read some of my design comments and background under the Designer link on any of the pages. Feel free to write me under the Contact tab is you have any questions!
It is totally gorgeous and really addicting knitting, but for at least an intermediate lace knitter.
Best blessings,
Susan A. Reishus
www.SusanReishusDesigns.com
You can view it on my website:
http://www.SusanReishusDesigns.com
More patterns are to come within the next months, some simpler and some more complicated, from lace to socks, baby items, and sweaters, etc. If you are curious, you can read some of my design comments and background under the Designer link on any of the pages. Feel free to write me under the Contact tab is you have any questions!
It is totally gorgeous and really addicting knitting, but for at least an intermediate lace knitter.
Best blessings,
Susan A. Reishus
www.SusanReishusDesigns.com
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Swan Lake & Lily Stole pattern is released!!!
My flagship pattern, Swan Lake & Lily Stole is available as a downloadable pdf. on my website:
http://www.susanreishusdesigns.com/
The feedback has been wonderful! It took about 1800 hours as there is movement within several sections at the same time in the pattern, which required intense work. It was also reworked to simplify it to lace knitting with plain purl back rows to make it easier for the knitter, and still keep the integrity of the design.
Everything is written from scratch and original, (though I am sure the bias mesh exists as it is staggered pairs of YO's and decreases), and the pattern is hopefully mistake proof.
You can email me at elationrelation@aol.com with questions or comments.
I hope you like it as people say it is incredible.
More is coming in short order, and they wil be just as beautiful, but easier knits at lower price points.
Swan Lake & Lily Stole is a timeless original!
Best blessings,
Susan A. Reishus
http://www.susanreishusdesigns.com/
http://www.susanreishusdesigns.com/
The feedback has been wonderful! It took about 1800 hours as there is movement within several sections at the same time in the pattern, which required intense work. It was also reworked to simplify it to lace knitting with plain purl back rows to make it easier for the knitter, and still keep the integrity of the design.
Everything is written from scratch and original, (though I am sure the bias mesh exists as it is staggered pairs of YO's and decreases), and the pattern is hopefully mistake proof.
You can email me at elationrelation@aol.com with questions or comments.
I hope you like it as people say it is incredible.
More is coming in short order, and they wil be just as beautiful, but easier knits at lower price points.
Swan Lake & Lily Stole is a timeless original!
Best blessings,
Susan A. Reishus
http://www.susanreishusdesigns.com/
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
Sock Length Knitting Notes
I have to say that figuring out SOCK LENGTH when knitting for someone else can be frustrating. Makes one want to kick oneself!
I just had to go through this when making size 14 socks for my father, and with fine yarn, 1x1 ribbing and mailing them a distance, wanted to make sure they fit!
There are some very general rules I know from old fashion design and fitting rules...
This one is APPROXIMATE but helpful if you are unable to measure the foot of the recipient:
If you know the person's height in inches, you divide it by 6 for a man, and 7 for a woman.
This one is exact, and can throw off many as to what the gift is to be:
Measure the bottom of the forearm, from the outside of the elbow to just beyond the wrist bone. (A bend arm makes this easy and accurate). This will provide the precise foot measurement.
There are also charts online you can search. If you know the person's shoe size you can measure the inside of that, but vendors vary and men tend to wear their shoes looser, and women sometimes on the tight side so it isn't a completely reliable indicator, but it will provide an approximation.
Obviously #2 is the most reliable and with all of the work that goes into socks, the one I rely on if I can't measure the foot itself.
Hope this helps!
Best,
Susan Reishus
I just had to go through this when making size 14 socks for my father, and with fine yarn, 1x1 ribbing and mailing them a distance, wanted to make sure they fit!
There are some very general rules I know from old fashion design and fitting rules...
This one is APPROXIMATE but helpful if you are unable to measure the foot of the recipient:
If you know the person's height in inches, you divide it by 6 for a man, and 7 for a woman.
This one is exact, and can throw off many as to what the gift is to be:
Measure the bottom of the forearm, from the outside of the elbow to just beyond the wrist bone. (A bend arm makes this easy and accurate). This will provide the precise foot measurement.
There are also charts online you can search. If you know the person's shoe size you can measure the inside of that, but vendors vary and men tend to wear their shoes looser, and women sometimes on the tight side so it isn't a completely reliable indicator, but it will provide an approximation.
Obviously #2 is the most reliable and with all of the work that goes into socks, the one I rely on if I can't measure the foot itself.
Hope this helps!
Best,
Susan Reishus
Friday, December 29, 2006
Susan Reishus Foolproof Circular Cast On
For knitters, I wanted to share a cast on I came up with earlier this year, that is very helpful and time saving. I named it the Susan Reishus Cast On, as the description of it would make for a very lengthy name. When doing a circular cast on, some find it a difficult and frustrating and often times lengthy process. This should be able to be accomplished in about 30 secs. to three minutes, and has received alot of accolades. It is here for you to share, as long as you put my name with it and honor the copyright, as I am planning to use it later for publication in my writing and design, but wanted to share it in the interim.
Susan Reishus Cast On (Circular):
2006 (This is an easy technique and fairly foolproof. If it takes a second attempt, then it is quick and easy to retry. It is based on a tatting needle cast on I tried quite awhile back and you can use either tool, but I will provide instructions for a crochet hook, as that is what you probably have around and have more size control with. If not, one could even use a dpn, and tape the end of the tail to the far/non-working end of the needle).
Take a crochet hook in the size of your intended knitting needle, or perhaps only slightly smaller in diameter if you don't have the correct one. Starting with the WRONG END of the crochet hook, cast on, preferably with a Long Tail Cast On (or E Cast On), your desired number of stitches. (Long Tail Cast On provides a ridge to grab and help ease over the tool).
Take the tail left over from the cast on, and put the middle of the length into the groove of the hook (or tape onto the non-working end of the dpn). Pull the crochet hook end through your cast on stitches, turning the CO ridge to slide over the hook/slitted portion of the crochet hook. You can grab and hold the cast on ridge slightly, if needed to ease over the hook. If perchance you lose the tail in the middle of the stitches, a very small steel hook kept nearby can be used to go in and retrieve the tail. (If you grabbed a hook with a wide thumb indention, you may have to cast on more loosely, or ease the cast on over the crochet hook indentation).
Take two double pointed needles in the size required, and slip half of the stitches on each needle and pull the tail to close the circle most of the way. Begin knitting your pattern as suggested, adding the additional dpn's as you knit, so that by the first knitted round, you have your full 4 double pointeds (or 3, if a US set), or magic loop needles, placed appropriately, and then pull the tail closed, or if you choose, take a small tapestry needle and go back through the loops a second time (not really necessary).
If perchance you goof up the first time, it will nearly always work the second time. If you have to pull it out, it is simpler to just pull on it and cut off the initial circle to start over. This takes only minutes, versus a long time and repeated attempts with other techniques.
I hope you like it! It is fun creating easier ways to accomplish something, and should save immeasureable time and frustration! Let me know how it works for you!
Copyright Susan A. Reishus 2006/7
You may share this link, or if you want to share it in any other form, must write and ask permission to elationrelation@aol.com
Blessings,
Susan A. Reishus
Susan Reishus Cast On (Circular):
2006 (This is an easy technique and fairly foolproof. If it takes a second attempt, then it is quick and easy to retry. It is based on a tatting needle cast on I tried quite awhile back and you can use either tool, but I will provide instructions for a crochet hook, as that is what you probably have around and have more size control with. If not, one could even use a dpn, and tape the end of the tail to the far/non-working end of the needle).
Take a crochet hook in the size of your intended knitting needle, or perhaps only slightly smaller in diameter if you don't have the correct one. Starting with the WRONG END of the crochet hook, cast on, preferably with a Long Tail Cast On (or E Cast On), your desired number of stitches. (Long Tail Cast On provides a ridge to grab and help ease over the tool).
Take the tail left over from the cast on, and put the middle of the length into the groove of the hook (or tape onto the non-working end of the dpn). Pull the crochet hook end through your cast on stitches, turning the CO ridge to slide over the hook/slitted portion of the crochet hook. You can grab and hold the cast on ridge slightly, if needed to ease over the hook. If perchance you lose the tail in the middle of the stitches, a very small steel hook kept nearby can be used to go in and retrieve the tail. (If you grabbed a hook with a wide thumb indention, you may have to cast on more loosely, or ease the cast on over the crochet hook indentation).
Take two double pointed needles in the size required, and slip half of the stitches on each needle and pull the tail to close the circle most of the way. Begin knitting your pattern as suggested, adding the additional dpn's as you knit, so that by the first knitted round, you have your full 4 double pointeds (or 3, if a US set), or magic loop needles, placed appropriately, and then pull the tail closed, or if you choose, take a small tapestry needle and go back through the loops a second time (not really necessary).
If perchance you goof up the first time, it will nearly always work the second time. If you have to pull it out, it is simpler to just pull on it and cut off the initial circle to start over. This takes only minutes, versus a long time and repeated attempts with other techniques.
I hope you like it! It is fun creating easier ways to accomplish something, and should save immeasureable time and frustration! Let me know how it works for you!
Copyright Susan A. Reishus 2006/7
You may share this link, or if you want to share it in any other form, must write and ask permission to elationrelation@aol.com
Blessings,
Susan A. Reishus
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